What’s the difference between factory paint and touch-up paint?
2025-10-31
Our new car got slightly scratched by someone — just a tiny mark. We want to fix the paint, but unfortunately, it’s the original factory paint. We’d like to know: what’s the difference between factory paint and touch-up paint?
“Original car paint,” also known as “factory paint” or “OEM paint,” differs from “refinish paint,” also called “repair paint.” Both types meet the requirements for appearance and corrosion resistance on a car’s surface, but the application methods are very different.
Factory paint is applied automatically by robotic systems, meaning parameters such as paint viscosity are fixed and consistent, resulting in excellent paint quality. Touch-up paint, on the other hand, is usually applied manually in less controlled environments, so the overall finish quality tends to be slightly lower — not because the paint itself is poor, but due to application conditions.
The paint that comes with the car from the factory is undoubtedly the best. However, minor scratches and bumps are inevitable during daily use. If the damage is very small, polishing might be enough to make it look fine again; for extremely tiny spots, touch-up pens can also do the job.
As for the front and rear bumpers, there’s no need to worry about factory paint since they’re made of plastic. For metal parts, it’s better not to repaint unless necessary — as long as there’s no exposed metal and no risk of rusting, it’s fine. Repainted areas may show slight color differences over time. Therefore, it’s best to drive carefully, but if repainting becomes necessary, we should go to a reputable workshop. Although it might cost more, the workmanship is usually much better.
If the scratch is on a plastic part, we can simply use the MR SPRAY PAINTS “Bumper Black” series to lightly spray and recolor it ourselves. If it’s on metal or aluminum parts, small spots can be fixed with a touch-up pen, but larger areas should be handled by professionals — since exposed primer on metal could lead to rust.
When repainting small areas rather than large ones, body shops often apply filler (putty). Our MR Spray Paints primer provides the best support for putty, preventing cracking or peeling.
Factory paint is robot-applied, precisely controlled, baked at high temperatures, and built up in multiple layers, resulting in an even film thickness. Refinish paint, however, is manually sprayed, so quality largely depends on the painter’s skill.
Our products are designed to support professional repair technicians, offering formulas that are highly color-accurate, easy to apply by brush or spray, and perfectly suited for automotive refinishing work.
Vista più
Why are some auto paints "soft?"——Know Something about hardness in clearcaot
2025-10-30
How Hard is Clear Coat Really?
You've probably often heard car detailers mention "soft paint" and "hard paint."
But what impact does "soft paint" vs. "hard paint" actually have on a car? These are industry terms.
The industry uses this distinction to gauge the level of polishing required, based on the elasticity and toughness of the clear coat, but it's not an absolute rule. Each car manufacturer tends to use specific types of coating brands. Different models from the same brand can have varying toughness, and even the same model produced in different factories may differ. Manufacturers also adjust the formula annually or in different batches, meaning the same model from different production years can vary too.
Why Does the Year Affect Clear Coat Toughness?
The automobile is only about 100 years old, but in that time, coating technology has evolved dramatically. It started with non-glossy, natural oil-based paints, then incorporated resins, nitrocellulose lacquer, solvent-based coatings (harder), thermosetting acrylics, thermoplastic acrylics, evolved to single-stage paint (softer), two-stage paint (harder), and now to water-based paints (especially soft). We can see that older cars generally had harder paint. However, due to the push for green and eco-friendly solutions, coupled with manufacturers aiming to reduce costs and achieve higher film thickness, modern paints tend to be softer with more pronounced orange peel.
What Does Hard or Soft Paint Mean for the Car Owner?
If you're concerned about stone chips and scratches, it's advisable to choose a car with harder paint. Brands like BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi, etc. – typically German cars – usually have very hard, thick clear coats that are difficult to damage. They resist abrasion and oxidation better, are less prone to deep contaminants or scratches, and generally require less effort to maintain the clear coat.
Conversely, if you choose a Japanese or domestic model, the clear coat is often softer and thinner (especially Japanese cars). This makes them more susceptible to contaminant adhesion, chipping easily from stone impacts, and even light contact can cause scratches. In our experience, Japanese and domestic cars have a higher demand for paint correction because they damage more easily than German cars. Owners of cars with soft paint need to invest more in detailing and maintenance after purchase and will frequently see new scratches and swirl marks reappear.
How to Tell if Paint is Soft or Hard?
This requires accumulated experience. With rich experience, one can often judge whether the paint is hard or soft just by seeing the model, color, year, orange peel, and type of fine scratches, and then select the appropriate approach. If you lack experience, you need shared knowledge to help you quickly judge and proceed correctly. If no such information is available, you'll have to rely on trial and error. Start by testing a small, inconspicuous area to see the paint's reaction, then adjust your method accordingly. Crucially, don't waste time applying excessive pressure or over-polishing.
Advice for Owners of Cars with Soft Paint
You get what you pay for; cost is reflected in the clear coat quality. Given the budget, everyone would prefer a car with better paint. Unfortunately, most people, working with limited budgets, end up with cars featuring softer paint. Therefore, our advice to soft paint owners is: Be meticulous about your parking environment – try to avoid parking under trees or in crowded, tight spaces. When washing or waxing, never rub the dry paint surface. Given the soft and thin nature of the clear coat, choose higher-quality protective products. Also, don't set your expectations for a flawless finish too high, as a freshly polished surface can quickly become damaged again, requiring further correction. Be mentally prepared for regular professional detailing and correction.
Of course, while it's always best to avoid accidents altogether, if you ever find yourself in a situation requiring a full panel respray, you can request the use of a harder clear coat for the repair. At MR Auto, we offer a variety of clear coat options to choose from!
Vista più
Is Car spray paint cans Great?
2025-10-30
If you’ve ever spent an afternoon trying to fix a car scratch with a store-bought spray can, you probably know the feeling: that moment when the paint comes out wet and globby, runs down the panel, and leaves a finish that looks… well, less than professional.
For years, DIYers and even some pros have had a love-hate relationship with rattle cans. On one hand, they’re accessible, affordable, and incredibly convenient. On the other, they often disappoint where it matters most—adhesion, consistency, and final appearance.
We heard those frustrations loud and clear. And instead of accepting that “this is just how spray cans are,” we decided to do something about it.
Traditional aerosol primers and paints often suffer from uneven pressure, poor pigment suspension, and weak bonding properties. That’s why even with careful prep and light coats, the result can still look amateur. You can’t blame the user when the product isn’t engineered to perform.
That’s where we turned things around.
We developed a self-spray epoxy primer that tackles these exact issues head-on. It’s formulated to spray evenly, dry quickly, and—most importantly—stick properly to bare metal and plastic surfaces like bumper covers. No more peeling. No more lifting. Just a solid, reliable base that behaves like it’s supposed to.
So… Are Spray Cans Great Now?
In our opinion? Yes—but only if they’re built right.
A good spray can shouldn’t be a compromise. It should be a solution. Whether you’re touching up stone chips, priming a repair area, or refreshing faded trim, the goal is a finish that holds up and looks right.
We’re not here to tell you that a spray can will replace professional bodywork. But what we can say is this: the gap between DIY and pro-grade results just got a whole lot smaller.
If you’ve been let down by rattle cans in the past, maybe it’s time to give them another look. The technology has moved forward—and this time, it actually works.
Vista più
Segreti professionali della verniciatura automobilistica
2025-08-08
Tecniche professionali di verniciatura automobilistica
1.Come spruzzare la vernice nera metallizzata in modo pulito con un minimo di macchie di polvere:
È fondamentale la preparazione: prima di tutto, con una pistola ad aria, soffiate bene tutte le cuciture e i bordi, poi soffiate su tutta la superficie.Asciugare la superficie con un panno, e prima di ogni sessione di spruzzo, soffiare nuovamente l'intera zona.asciugare con un panno e soffiare nuovamente prima di procedere alla normale spruzzaturaNon è necessario effettuare ulteriori pulizie tra i due strati, basta soffiare la superficie prima di ogni applicazione, ottenendo una finitura perfettamente pulita.
2Come fare in modo che le miscele di vernice con i ritocchi siano meno evidenti:
Dopo la preparazione della superficie, non levigare immediatamente il pannello con 2000 grana. Prima, lucidare l'intero pannello per rimuovere le macchie d'acqua e i contaminanti, quindi degresare a fondo per eliminare i residui di cera.sabbia con ghiaia 2000, estendendosi di circa 10 cm oltre l'area di spruzzatura della base.Mescolare normalmente e usare una pressione d'aria moderata. non spruzzare troppo il rivestimento trasparente. lasciare circa 8 cm della zona levigata di 2000 ghiaia esposti per la miscelazione.
Quindi, mescolare il solvente di miscelazione (ratio 1: 1 con il rivestimento trasparente) e spruzzare leggermente sulla zona di transizione rimanente di 8 cm, utilizzando una pressione inferiore per evitare correnti.spruzzare il 100% di solvente miscelatore su qualsiasi foschia spruzzata in eccesso due strati di luce faranno sparire la nebbia mentre si asciuga. Durante la lucidatura, si deve solo levigare leggermente l'area trasparente per rimuovere le macchie di polvere.la riparazione sarà invisibile, neppure i professionisti se ne accorgeranno..
3Come ridurre l'eccesso di buccia d'arancia in pelli trasparenti:
Se un pannello (come una porta) ha troppa buccia d'arancia, non preoccuparti, c'è una soluzione: aggiungi solvente di miscelazione al rivestimento trasparente in proporzione 1:2 (50% trasparente, 100% solvente).Spruzzalo leggermente senza sovrapposizioni pesanti per evitare correnti, appena abbastanza per ripristinare la lucentezzaSe necessario, applicare un secondo strato, ma aspettare tra le due applicazioni per evitare un'eccessiva riduzione, che può rendere la consistenza troppo fine e rotta.
4Un trucco per una perfetta levigatura prima della vernice metallica:
Dopo aver spruzzato il primer, non togliere immediatamente la carta mascherante. Lascia asciugare il primer, quindi identifica eventuali fori. Mescola vernice nera metallica molto sottile e applica un unico strato di nebbia uniforme.Rimuovi la maschera e lascia asciugareDurante la levigatura, lo strato nero funge da guida; una volta completamente rimosso, il grembiule sarà perfettamente liscio.che può poi essere riempito con pasta vetrataQuesto metodo garantisce l'assenza di imperfezioni.
5.Suggerimenti per le vernici di perle problematiche (perle rosse e blu):
La perla rossa ha una copertura scarsa, ma ecco una soluzione: mescola il 30% di perla rossa nel primer, creando una base rosa.Un' altra opzione è spruzzare su una base bianca pura (due strati di bianco 1K) o metallica argentoEvitate i basamenti in argento, possono causare cambiamenti di colore a causa del riflesso metallico.
La perla blu segue principi simili.
Vista più
Cause e soluzioni per lo sbucciamento della pellicola trasparente automobilistica
2025-08-08
L'applicazione del trasparente rappresenta l'ultimo e più critico passaggio nella verniciatura automobilistica, determinando direttamente la qualità complessiva della finitura. Molti verniciatori incontrano frequentemente problemi di scrostatura del trasparente, in particolare quando applicato su basi metallizzate/argento. Cosa causa questo comune difetto?
Analisi delle cause principali: I verniciatori professionisti spesso osservano la scrostatura del trasparente insieme alle scaglie di alluminio (particelle metalliche). Il problema fondamentale risiede nell'emulsione di cera contenuta in queste scaglie. Questa cera:
Serve a controllare la dispersione delle particelle di alluminio
Previene la sedimentazione nella miscela di vernice
Maggiore contenuto di alluminio = Più cera = Adesione più deboleQuesto può essere chiaramente dimostrato attraverso test di adesione a taglio incrociato.
Soluzioni comprovate per sistemi di verniciatura metallizzata:
Regolazione del contenuto di resina
Aumentare moderatamente la proporzione di resina nella formula della vernice
Le resine migliorano le proprietà di legame
Attenzione: quantità eccessive comprometteranno altre proprietà
Ottimizzazione dell'indurente
Aggiungere lo 0,1% di indurente alla base metallizzata
Rafforza l'adesione tra gli strati
È necessario mantenere un rapporto preciso
Disciplina della miscelazione
La scrostatura maggiore spesso deriva da rapporti impropri:
Base : Trasparente : Indurente
L'aggiunta arbitraria di indurente riduce l'adesione della base
Seguire sempre le specifiche del produttore
Conformità del processo
La rigorosa aderenza ai protocolli di applicazione previene:
Scrostatura
Bolle
Altri difetti di finitura
Ricorda: la scrostatura è raramente causata dal solo trasparente - è un guasto del sistema
Approfondimento tecnico: La cera che protegge le scaglie di alluminio crea uno strato limite debole. Quando il trasparente si scrosta con le scaglie, indica:
Adesione inadeguata tra la superficie cerosa e il trasparente
Adesione chimica o meccanica insufficiente
Raccomandazione professionale: Eseguire sempre test di adesione sulle finiture metallizzate prima dell'applicazione completa. Per formulazioni problematiche, considerare:
Promotori di adesione specializzati
Tempi di evaporazione prolungati
Sgrassaggio adeguato della superficie
Vista più
